The Camino Diaries – Onwards to the Hot Springs of Caldas de Reis



With two days to spend in Pontevedra before we bustled to Caldas de Reis, we explored every nook and cranny.

Pontevedra has traditionally been a trading city, a Galician port that was the hub of sea-trading activity.

It’s lively with so many places to see including the gorgeous Parador Pontevedra; a haven that felt like an estate out of Game of Thrones. They do, by the way, amazing hot chocolate.


We ate in the Praza da Leña area which was the old firewood marketplace, in the old quarter now known for its quality of tapas!

While our Spanish was rusty, we made good use of Google Translate to get by (highly recommend by the way!).

Waving “goodbye” to Pontevedra, we packed everything up for Tuitrans to collect and hauled our backpacks on again.

Following the yellow arrows out of the city, we soon made our way over Burgo Bridge that was built near the former site of a Roman bridge, the “old bridge” that gave the city its name.

It was around 22km or so to get to Caldas de Reis and while the sunny weather had now turned overcast it was still very muggy and hot.

It was along this route that we met the three Italians.

  • Stollo (not his real name but a combination of “solo” and strolling), took things at his own pace while his companions charged ahead. Mom and I often were just a few metres behind him, admiring how he simply took the route as it came.
  • Suspendo (another Italian) was so called due to his tendency to hike his white socks way too high up his legs making them look like suspenders! It was quite the sight.
  • Valentino (the final Italian) took a shine to Mom as he sauntered by practically winking as he lugged a massive backpack on his shoulders. Though initially, Mom found him annoying she eventually warmed to him – hence, Mr. Valentino!

After a few hours, the weather changed and it started to absolutely lash out of the heavens – so much so that it was seeping through our ponchos.

It eventually got to a stage where we were like “f&!% it” we’re going to get wet anyway and we embraced the rain with our fellow pilgrims.

Sogging, squidging and absolutely exhausted, seeing the sign finally for Caldas de Reis almost brought tears to my eyes.


I know the capital letters seem rather dramatic but can you imagine how we felt?

Cursing the Camino again, we dragged our way to the hotel (Hotel Sena) and flung ourselves into the bedroom.

After a short rest in our hotel, we went on the hunt for somewhere to eat but not before stopping by at the long-awaiting hot springs.

Caldas de Reis’ hot springs are said to have healing properties for tired feet but it’s not uncommon to see people doing their washing in them either!

Imagine getting the most amazing foot massage in the world; that was what this hot spring felt like. It covered our limbs with soothing water that eased away the tension of the day.

While there isn’t a lot to do in Caldas the Reis, the springs are a magical thing to experience after walking with grubby feet stuffed into your shoes. HEAVEN.

Popping into a pharmacy to grab some muscle cream we were pointed in the direction of a pokey little restaurant on the riverbank for dinner.

It was in this spot O Muino, that we met our Aussie quartet who greatly enhanced our food with their company. More on them later!

We spent just one in Caldas de Reis for the next day we were etching even closer to Santiago, to Padrón.

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Hello! Úna-Minh is a journalist, social media consultant and virtual assistant who loves (you guessed it) TRAVEL. She also feels a bit strange writing in the third person so she'll stop that now. You can find out more about me and my Mammy in the about section of this blog!

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  1. I’m a huge GOT fan! I saw the pics of Parador Pontevedra. It’s truly out of the George RR Martin’s books. Amazing! Love to do this trip sometime!

    1. It’s a great place – a lot of character and the staff are very friendly!

  2. I can so relate to use Google Translate during traveling. I learned spanish in school and when we travelled to Spain it was like i never heard any of it in my entire life. The food in the restaurant looks so tasty – its pimintos di padron (excuse my spanish) if I am not wrong ?
    Have a good time
    Thank you and greetings

    1. That’s right those are pimentos! So delicious 🙂 I’m having cravings now. Google Translate is a life saver for sure 😉 Sounds like your Spanish is pretty good though!

  3. Pontevedra looks absolutely beautiful! And what exactly did you have at the pokey restaurant???? The green dish looks like jalapenos. I’m definitely intrigued!

    1. The green dish are Padrón Pimentos so a type of green pepper. Really delicious 🙂

  4. I would love to get a hot massage from nature. The tour seems short yet fun filled. The water is really amazing. If I find myself on that route, I’d surely drop by to enjoy a free nature massage

    1. Thanks Lydia! Wasn’t quite a tour really, we were doing everything on our own but we met a lot of people along the way. The hot springs were lovely 🙂

  5. Hahah google translate saved us from ordering food too when we were in spain or in any other country in general.

    1. Google Translate is the business 😀

  6. I did the Rheinsteig Trail in Germany two years ago and after a 20 kilometer day, my hotel was on the other side of town. So I know exactly how you felt when you realized you had yet another kilometer to walk yet. By that point, you just want to be done for the day. The peppers and razor clams look yummy though!

    1. Oh gosh yeah – it can be absolutely exhausting!

  7. I had not even heard about this place before. Maybe because I am one of the few, who don’t watch GOT. But Pontevedra looks so pretty. I would want to visit it some day for sure.

    1. Well, to be fair, it wouldn’t have mattered if you had watched Game of Thrones or not 😉 I was just comparing the buildings to them!

  8. I use Google translate to get by too – it’s wavy sometimes, but gets the point across! Sucks that you got caught in the rain – the Camino is a journey filled with many ups and downs – and I can definitely imagine your mental exhaustion in getting to the center of town and then realizing there was still a ways to the hostel. The Caldas de Reis’ hot springs though sounds like a welcome reward once you got there!

  9. Caldas de Reis’ hot springs looks like a really soothing and rejuvenating experience. Parador Pontevedra does invoke a sense of deja vu, if one is a GOT fan. Nice trip all round and looks like an eventful and enjoyable experience for you guys.

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